Living in Texas for all my life, I have a special place in my stomach for BBQ. It is impossible to live in this part of the country and not have an occasional experience with meats smoked low and slow. I have such an appreciation for this type of cuisine, that I must categorize these reviews separately.
When craving BBQ where do you go? There are two hundred million BBQ places in town and no guide to direct you to the right place. To cure this, I have two solutions. First, try what’s local. Visit the places by work, home, school, church, or the bar (one in the same to some). This can assist your local acumen with BBQ. Second, read what others say. I sure do! Check out blogs, articles, online reviews, and magazines. A great blog is Full Custom Gospel BBQ. FCG BBQ is strictly BBQ and they are serious. Whether eating in Dallas or other Texas BBQ meccas, FCG BBQ has probably been there. Their knowledge is so great, the sites founder was asked to write a Best of BBQ article for D Magazine. Start with these two solutions. I would love to hear what places you find.
I stumbled onto Back Country BBQ a few years ago off a tip from a coworker. Found on Greenville Avenue in between Park Ln and Walnut Hill, BC BBQ is a staple of the neighborhood. Walking in at lunch will prove that to you. Regulars poor in for a weekday BBQ lunch at Back Country and keep the dining room busy. So with this many regulars, the BBQ is great right?
Well that depends on what you want to eat. Back Country offers the typical BBQ staples found in Texas. Brisket, Sausage, Ham, Turkey, Chicken, Hot Links, Ribs, and Pork are available for consumption. A great addition to the menu are hamburgers, corn dogs, chicken fried steak, and grilled chicken to name a few. Now those options are not ones I would take, but if you have a friend who wants choice beyond BBQ then the choice is there. When I visit Back Country, I stick to one thing. That would be their SAUSAGE. It is great. Their Sausage contains the best blend of meats, fats, and spices needed to produce a subtle yet meaty flavor. The casing is thin and provides the perfect snap to the meaty texture. The grind on the meat is where the perfection lies. It’s not the chunky meat and fat blend that many current BBQ purveyors serve, its a finer blend. The fine grind makes the snap worthwhile and leaves you with a rich, meaty, silky texture to enjoy. A few months ago on a late lunch visit, I asked the owner if they made their sausage in house. “We get ours from Rudolph’s in Deep Ellum,” was his reply.
Rudolph’s Market is a Deep Ellum regular since 1895. 1895!!! They are my first choice for the finest meats and sausages. Next time you are having a grill, BBQ, or are in need for a great butcher, check out Rudolph’s. You wont be disappointed. Back to Back Country:
What about items outside of sausage? That is where Back Country can be tricky. Unfortunately, tricky means inconsistent. Nothing is more inconsistent than their brisket. BC BBQ serves a trimmed beef with little fat. I assume they trim the point off the briskets before they smoke them, and although it makes for a less fatty result, the flavor certainly suffers. When good, the gentle spice forms a great crust around the tender slices of beef. The slow and low process gives the beef a butter-like consistency that melts when eaten. The smoke flavor is light at BC BBQ, which can be a good thing when balanced. This can also give you bad brisket at BC BBQ. The lack of flavor from the smoke can render your taste buds bored by the lack of depth of flavor. Coupled with a trimmed brisket, when you catch BC BBQ on a bad day, you can detect it from the dry tasteless meat.
I know what you are thinking. You’re saying to yourself, “But surely the sauce saves it right?” No it doesn’t. The sauce is consistently light. A perfect pairing for ‘cue with a deep smokey flavor, the sauce fails to rebound any sub par meats. Given BC BBQ doesn’t have a deep smokey flavor, each dunk of BBQ into the light tomoatoey sauce leaves you with a desire for a more true BBQ finish.
Several visits have proved my theory correct. Ribs, Pork, and Chicken are hit and miss. A two meat plate can be a gamble over the solid Sausage plate. Once ordered, you are left with the choice of the veggies. Don’t rush this part of the process! BC BBQ has some of the best sides in town, and they have twenty-two to choose from. My favorite is the french fries. Their fries not only beat fries of other BBQ establishments, but rival the fries of burger joints alike. The thin cut shoestring fries are made to order. By the time I clear the line, pay, and set up my table, the hot sticks are delivered to my table for quick consumption. The crispy outside gives to a tender inside that kills with ketchup. Toss some pepper on those bad boys when they get to your table and they elevate to legendary status. On my first visit, I noticed a table of businessmen tearing through several large baskets of fries. Having skipped the pommes frites on my initial visit, I quickly realized my mistake and never made it again.
Other quality sides include beans, jalapeno beans, and their variety of cold salads (potato, pasta, ect.). The jalapeno beans are deep with a spicy flavor that’s been developed over hours of slow cooking. Accompanied by a rich sauce, the beans are well worth getting to liven up a sometimes weak brisket.
Back Country BBQ is a great place to visit as long as you order certain things. I wish I could say their Ribs or Brisket rival some of the states best, but I would be lying. But BC BBQ is not out of my rotation, it just has its special place when in a special mood. That inspires me to further the quest for great Texas BBQ. If you are a Sausage fan, I hope you at least give them a try. I know you will find it worth a visit.
NOTE: Full Custom Gospel BBQ’s has a review of Back Country BBQ.
F – 2
V – 2
R – 2